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(For FAQ's on the PSX/PSOne click here!)
Station versions in Australia
Ø 30002 + 10 screws in base (V3 Gap Bios, V3 No Gap Bios, V3 Top No Gap Bios),
Ø 30002 + 8 screws in base (V4 Gap Bios, V4 No Gap Bios),
Ø 35002 (GT V4),
Ø 30002 R (V5&V6),
Ø 39002 (V7&V8),
Ø 50002 (V9),
Ø 50002a (V10),
Ø 70002 (V12) Slimline PSTwo &
Ø 70002 a (V13)
Ø 75002 (V14),
Ø 77002 (V16),
Ø 79002 (V18) the newest Slimline PSTwo.
Internationally there are also V1 and V2 stations.
To assist selecting a mod chip compatible with your station type, go here [Table], for a listing of abilities and capabilities of each chip type.
Note - It does not list all of the DMS3 features, but does give it credit for having extra non-game related features.
Once you have selected your chip...
How to pull apart your PS2 safely
Here is a [Tute] on how to pull apart the two main case versions (i.e. V1-3, and V4-8)
Typical Tools required to MOD a PS2 are listed below
Stores: Radio Shack, Tandy, Dicksmiths, Jay Car, Farnell, Altronics, Jameco etc.
Ø A battery powered philips head screw driver
Ø A Philips head jewellers screw driver
Ø A flat head screw driver to help get the metal plate off of the CD drive.
Ø Wire cutters
Ø Wire strippers (one for fine & one for thick wire)
Ø Hot glue for making the wires "neat"...
Ø A Razor for neatly cutting the warranty sticker - or just remove.
Ø Electrical tape to insulate the top of the chip if needed.
Ø Double sided tape to stick the chip down if it does not have it's own.
Ø Pins for removing shorts if a desoldering station is not available
Ø Anti-static work area or at least a wrist strap
Ø Good lighting and possibly magnification of some type
Ø A few hours of spare time - patients and a steady hand
Recommended wire
Ø AWG30 Kynar or
Ø AWG30 Wire wrap wire
Ø AWG22 7 core Stranded for CLK, GND and PWR
Ø Enamelled transformer wire AWG34 or similar (very small for V3)
Recommended size
Ø AWG30 for most points
Ø AWG34 or smaller for the V3 and below
Ø AWG22 for power, ground and clock connections
Explanation of wire Gauge
AWG vs SWG |
| Gauge | Diameter | Resistance | Current @ 3A/mm2 |
| SWG | AWG | mm | ohm/km | Amps |
| 37 | 34 | .16 | 844 | .060 |
36 | 33 | .18 | 676 | .075 |
35 | 32 | .20 | 547 | .093 |
33 | 30 | .25 | 351 | .147 |
31 | 29 | .30 | 243 | .212 |
28 | 27 | .35 | 178 | .288 |
27 | 26 | .40 | 137 | .378 |
26 | 25 | .45 | 108 | .477 |
24 | 24 | .50 | 87.5 | .588 |
22 | 22 | .65 | 51.7 | 1.000 |
Good Irons
Ø HAKKO 941 ESD Safe (smallest tip 0.2mm)
Ø HAKKO 936 ESD Safe (smallest tip 0.4mm)
Ø Weller TC202DT (smallest tip 0.8mm)
Ø Goot station ESD Safe (0.5mm standard tip, 0.2mm smallest)
Ø Goot Pen (supplied with a 0.2mm tip)
Ø Pace
Tip sizes
Ø 0.8mm for AWG22
Ø 0.5mm to 0.1mm for fine points
Power ratings
Ø For temperature controlled, set to around 325-350 degrees C.
Ø Or a 15-17 watt plug in iron
Solder
Ø 0.56mm to 0.35mm resin cored silver solder
Ø 0.8mm resin cored tin/lead solder for large points
(use flux at your own risk - assists with bonding but is corrosive!)
Soldering techniques (Search the Web!)
Ø Always tin (add small amount of solder to) both the wire and the connection point
Ø Once tinned, solder point & wire together, hold iron in place for max of 1 to 2 seconds
Ø Angle Iron approximately 45° to the solder point, allow solder to cover enough to hold
Ø Keep wires as short as possible, avoid 90 degree bends
Ø Keep wires as close to the PCB as possible
Ø Can use the blue tack and razor trick (see below)
The Razor Trick...
Ø For stations like a V3 - if you don't have a 0.1mm tip or even if you do...
Ø Using two blades angled almost flat, use blue tack to hold them in place.
Ø [Click here for a picture] (thanks to Szwaba67)
They create a funnel towards the pin, you don't stick the blades between the pins, just lay them so you can't see the adjacent pin and the blade edge is touching the pin you want to solder to. It's time consuming to get it right on every pin you need to solder to, but you may need it if you can't get a small tip iron.
Soldering to fine pitch Chip legs
I use this method in preference to razor trick on V9's!
Ø Very slightly tin the chip leg you are about to solder to.
Ø Don't tin more than one leg at a time as this can lead to shorts occurring more easily.
Ø Strip 4 to 5mm of insulation off of the wire.
Ø The extra length makes it easier to work with.
Ø Tin the exposed wire - making sure not to excessively tin it.
Ø Globs of solder will almost guarantee shorts.
(- always have a pin handy to remove accidental shorts)
Ø Hold wire steady by placing the exposed wire against the chip leg on the MB
Ø Hold the edge of the wire against the vertical section of the leg.
Ø With a tiny dob of solder on the iron, heat the wire until it melts the areas together.
Ø Remove the iron and after a second, test the joint with a very gentle tug.
Ø If it held, bend the wire back across the top of the chip and glue it in place.
Ø Use a tiny glob of super glue - or use double sided tape if that is your preference.
Ø Hold the wire at the glued point, bend it in the direction of the chip
- (Holding the wire ensures no stress is applied the solder joint)
Ø Now cut to length so that it just reaches the chip
Ø Solder in place - and neaten if you wish with glue or double sided tape..
Soldering to VIAs...
I never use flux! & only scrape the vias if necessary!
Ø Strip and tin the wire (easy part)
Ø Insert some solder just into the opening on the via
Ø Using the soldering iron gently heat the solder until the via hole fills with solder
Warning - do not hold the iron on the via for more than 1 to 2 seconds each time,
or it can over heat and fall off.
Ø Fill up the via, so that there is solder sitting just above the level of the PCB
Ø You have effectively now converted the via into a pad
Ø Depending on how thick your wire is - you can either:
a) Heat the solder in the via & insert the tip of the wire into it. Then flatten the wire
against the PCB. This can only be done with very thin wire (AWG34). OR
b) Lie the wire flat against the filled via like you would with a pad and solder it on.
  
Testing joints
Ø Visibly check
Ø Use a multi-meter to ensure continuity (connection / 0 ohms / beep)
Ø Very gently tug to ensure it holds fast
Ø Ensure no shorts between connection point and surrounding circuit
Ø Ensure no solder splashes or balls are left on the PCB
Above all practice soldering before attempting to install into your PS2!
General Electronics
Please also refer to this document for more indepth descriptions.
I = Current Units = Amps (A),
V = Voltage Units = Volts (V)
R = resistance Units = Ohms 
P = Power Units = Watts (W)
C = Capacitance Units = Farads (F)
L = Inductance Units = Henries (H)
F = Frequency Units = Hertz (Hz)
p = Pico 0.000000000001
n = Nano 0.000000001
µ = Micro 0.000001
m = Milli 0.001
Ohms law - V = I x R
P = I² x R P = V² / R P = I x V
Resistors In Series - Rt = R1 + R2
Resistors In Parallel - Rt = R1 // R2 => 1 / Rt = (1 / R1) + (1 / R2)
Inductors In Series - Lt = L1 + L2
Inductors In Parallel - Lt = L1 // L2 => 1 / Lt = (1 / L1) + (1 / L2)
Capacitors In Parallel - Ct = C1 + C2
Capacitors In Series - Ct = C1 // C2 => 1 / Ct = (1 / C1) + (1 / C2)
Powering a LED, resistor value selection:
R = (V-0.7) / I or R = (V-0.3) / I
Standard LEDs drop the voltage by 0.7 of a volt, Germanium LEDs drop it by 0.3
Typical value for I is 20mA or 0.02A. Typical voltage used 5 volts DC. thus:
R = (5-0.7) / 0.02 => R = 215 (220) ohms
Divider Networks:
V1 = supply volts, V2 = output volts, R1 is connected to V1 and R2 is connected to ground.
V2 = V1 x (R2 / (R1 + R2))
Understanding Codes
Surface mount Capacitors:
103 = 10 x 10^3 x 10^(-12) = 0.00000001 = 0.01uF or 10nF
474 = 47 x 10^4 x 10^(-12) = 0.00000047 = 0.47uF or 470nF
Surface mount Resistors:
 Equates to 10 x 10^3 = 10,000 or 10K ohms
 Equates to 22 x 10^5 = 2,200,000 or 2.2M ohms
 Equates to 0 x 10^0 = 0 ohms or a short.
Also as an example - 2K2 = 2.2K it is just another way of writing it.
Secondly 1R = 1 ohm
Through hole Resistors:
Select your resistor colour code below:
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